Custom Printed Lettering

NAME IT!

Did you just finish a new plane? Ready to take it out the field and show off your work and maybe put in a couple of trim flights? One thing is missing - you need a name or numbers on it!

Here is an inexpensive and quick way to get that “Custom” name on your plane at home, with your own hands. The materials used are not fuelproof, so they can only be used on electric models, gliders, boats, cars and make great window signs for your van. These names or numbers can be made any size, the smallest I have made is 3/8” tall. They can be removed later without leaving that awful sticky mess (use Rubber Cement thinner to remove any residue). These names and such don’t stick to things like foam, etc. They must be applied to a NON-POROUS surface. Seal the surface with foam-friendly CA, thinned white glue or apply a strip of low temp iron-on covering across a wing. Test on a scrap first.

Covering With EasySpan

Thinned dope is the classic way to attach tissue. There are other alternatives that some people prefer. A popular way that is pretty easy is to use glue stick. Its very simple to simply spread the glue on the perimeter of the area you are covering. If you want to stretch out wrinkles you can simply moisten the edge and the glue releases again. When you dope it the glue the adhesion is water proof.

Attaching Trim Monokote

A quick suggestion by Jim Ryan

Covering an EPP Plane With Sign Vinyl

A detailed writeup on Dave Wenzlick’s technique for rugged EPP sloper covering - especially for those locales with really hot temperatures where 3M77 lets go

Fiberglass Paint Preparation

How to get fiberglass parts ready for a successful finish

Carbon Fiber Hazards

A writeup on hazards of carbon fiber to watch out for

A Good Pinhole Filler

I don’t know how big the pin holes are that you guys are trying to fill, I have always used an inexpensive product called 3M Acryl-Green Spot Putty product number 051144-05960 with good success.

Apply it with just a soft plastic squeegy, it dries fast and sand with 600 wet paper, prime and sand and paint, and wala! pin holes bye bye! This is my 10 centavos worth.

Working With Fiberglass

A great synopsis of how to apply fiberglass smoothly, lightly and consistently

Epoxy Safety

Read this important note about latex vs. vinyl gloves when working with epoxy!

Light Covering With MicaFilm

The instructions that come with MicaFilm covering, and many kits, suggest that you should apply the BalsaLoc (water-based) or BalsaRite (solvent-based) adhesive directly to the wood structure that you will be covering. This does provide adhesion, but has a couple of bad side effects:

1. The wood absorbs an outrageous amount of the adhesive, adding unnecessary weight to the model
2. Thin wood sections will warp very noticeably from being “wetted” on one surface (this can be somewhat handled by wetting both sides at the same time, but this can be tricky and adds weight as mentioned above)

So the easy answer is, don’t apply the adhesive to the structure! Always apply the adhesive to the MicaFilm covering material wherever the film will contact the model’s structure. The adhesive can be brushed on, or for absolute minimum weight rolled on with a roller. The adhesive layer can be quite thin and still provide fine adhesion.